New Look...Not Happy

Friday, February 6, 2015

Remember that this is my lab notebook.  In fairness, I have shown a lot of garments I've made which I love -- fit, fabric, and lovely patterns.  Ummm, time to share a failed experiment.  No dart or sneaky rework could save it --  or maybe I need your help to fix it. . . Shame since my invisible zip insertion is pretty darn good.  

Experiment:
New Look 6299, View A
Size 8

Materials:
2 yards maroon with black diamond cotton
1/2 yard black cotton
Coats and Clark black thread
22" Maroon invisible zipper

Procedure:
Cue the pattern picture and line drawing because this is how I get sucked in.  
Princess seams -- easy fitting. Collar to give that librarian look.  Sleeves cause I like 'em.  I decided on view A because of the collar and I added the sleeves of view D.  Before adding the sleeves, I did a quick fit check and it seemed to be ok -- it was a tad larger than expected so I brought the side seams in by 1/2 inch.  Here is a front view:
Here is the front.  Notice my arms are behind slightly stretching the bodice.  Do you see it? The pesky problem that no matter what I did or how I gathered it would not go away.  During my fit check there was no indication that there would be a gob a fabric on either side of my bust.
Ummm, pooh.  I didn't see this until I tried it on after finishing. I put the garment on my dress form and tired to gather the excess fabric in a way that would 1. get rid of it and/or 2. hide it.  When I gathered, it pulled at the bust seam. I unpicked the side seams to see if the the excess I had taken in earlier had this negative impact... Nope, still a gob a fabric there.  I then tried to fold it into shapes that would hide it a la dart style -- still a fail!  I brought in the bodice seams and it still looked funky!!
Grrrr, frustrating.  I know I am a small-busted gal and maybe this pattern was for a lady who was gifted with more. Or maybe this pattern just doesn't work for me without a lot of extra work.  Please know that I am all for understanding the problem and learning a solution so that in the future if I encounter anything remotely similar again, well, I will be armed and ready to tackle it!  Will I fix this thing!? Nah, probably not.  Zapped my energy.  I would rather start anew.  Into the charity box it goes...and on to the next project.

Happy Stitching!

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11 Comments »

11 Responses to “New Look...Not Happy”

  1. could it be you need a narrow shoulder adjustment and bringing the shoulder in would help remove some of the fabric? It definitely seems weird... On the plus from the back it looks great and is a lovely colour! I hope your next project works for you as its an absolute bummer when things go wrong like that :-( x

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  2. It looks like you would have been better off to choose a smaller size and let out seams if you needed to to get the fit around the bust, etc. There is too much fabric around your upper chest and armhole.

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  3. It looks like you would have been better off to choose a smaller size and let out seams if you needed to to get the fit around the bust, etc. There is too much fabric around your upper chest and armhole.

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  4. Oh I'm sorry to read about your problem! As a fellow small busted lady, I would say try taking in both the side seams and the side front seams a bit more. Remove some excess at the side seams below the arms and then near the bust at the side front seams, and see if that helps... I think the challenge lies because the side front seams extend to the shoulders, rather than to the side seams, as otherwise it would be much easier to fix.

    I hope this helps and best of luck! I love your fabric choice and the collar so really do hope you can make it work :)

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  5. I get this all the time because I have a narrow upper chest, but broad upper back (rounded shoulders and prominent shoulder blades). Try scooping out the front of the armhole. You could try measuring the upper chest width from armhole crease to armhole crease above the bust, and scooping out until you have that width plus a little extra ease, say 1-2cm.

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  6. So sorry about the problem and I agree with the comment from "sewing as therapy". Anyway, your dress is pretty with perfect length and fabric. I hope you can deal with the problem :)

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  7. I often get this fold with some brands of pattern as well - there is too much fabric there that needs taking out - also the shoulder seams look quite wide. This is where a muslin helps and why I spend so much time doing the PITA (pain in the a...) things. Of course, with the fabric taken out, the armscye will be wrong. And so it goes on. With a little cardigan on you will not notice this fold, and even sometimes after 24 hours in the closet, there is a coming to terms with it - it may look really nice casually, with a cardigan, over leggings. Some of my failures sometimes end up being favourites for those at home days where you just want to not try too hard but still look okay - and when everything else is in the wash :)

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  8. I'm sad to hear of your fitting problem, especially as I can't offer any suggestions other than echoing those in the other comments, but I do love the fabric combination here - the black collar looks lovely!

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  9. I hope you're able to make this workable for you -- like others, I love this fabric combo. Also, I have this pattern and really want to make it...thanks for this note so I can watch for this too!

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  10. Oh no, what a shame. The dress looks so cute with the black details.
    I am not that good in manipulating patterns, so I can't give you any advise. Only things I can think of is 1. do as you said, off to the charity shop and give way for the 2nd try or 2. try to ignore it, wear it with a cardigan, around the house, in the garden. Maybe you won't mind the fit as much as you do know and wear it anyway (happened to me with my wintercoat, its fit is far from being perfect, it add two sizes to my body and I still came to like it)?

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  11. Maybe try a small bust adjustment next time? You make all the same cuts as a full bust adjustment, but then overlap instead of spread. Another thing that might save the current dress might be unpicking the princess seams from your bust up to the shoulder, and taking it in there until it fits. Maybe? I hope so! I think it's really a cute dress!

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I love to hear what you think -- it makes my day! I will try to respond to each of them.

Annie